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</a> The days started at about 6am, with a cup of tea and a bowl of hot washing water brought to our tents. After that it was a scramble to pack our bags ready for them to be strapped on to the ponies, or the yaks which joined the convoy once we reached the higher altitudes. Then we ate a breakfast of hot porridge and eggs in the mess tent while the crew struck the camp. Most days we were walking in clear weather by or 8am, and a couple of hours later wed stop in sunshine for a cup of the masala chai carried by Dorje in a Thermos. After another two hours walking there would be a hot lunch &ndash; curry, vegetables, rice, and fruit.

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